Thursday, February 22, 2007

Kabuki-za

Another beautiful day. Sunny and warm enough at times to dispense with my windbreaker. We started off at Ueno with a visit to one of our favorite places in Tokyo, the Shitamachi Museum. Shitamachi translates to "downtown" and the museum covers everyday life in early 19th century Tokyo. It is a small museum, easy to do in under an hour, and the exhibits are engaging. We had funny little man act as tour guide for us through the museum.

After the museum we hit Matsuzaka-ya dept. store and the Ameyokocho discount shops. Lunch was coffee and sandwiches at Cafe Veloce. We went back to the apt. right after lunch so we could get ready to head to Ginza for our evening of Kabuki.

Tonight's performance was Chushingura, the tale of the 47 Ronin. It is one of the most popular Kabuki plays and this performance featured many famous Kabuki actors, some of whom are designated as living national treasures. We arrived at Kabuki-za a little bit before 4 p.m. and the theatre was surrounded by a crowd of theatre-goers. The doors opened at 4 p.m. and everyone crammed their way through the doors. We only had a half hour to pick up our ear phones with English translation, make a meal reservation for the intermission and find our seats. The show began at 4:30 p.m.

I just love kabuki even though I miss most of the dialogue. The ear phone translator covers the basic elements of the plot, but does not do a line by line translation. What I love about Kabuki are the sets and the costumes. It is as if you were looking at an 18th century Ukiyo-e woodblock print that has come back to life. The acting is way over the top and is supposed to be that way. Kabuki actors do not strive for reality. Movements are extremely stylized. The method of talking is exaggerated. All parts are played by men. This particular play had some juicy bits in it, such as seppuku (ritual suicide) and a beheading. The intermission came at 6:20 and lasted for 30 minutes. Just enough time for us to find the table with my name tag on it. Our meals were sitting there waiting for us. There was another break at 8:30 but it only lasted 10 minutes. I made a dash for the ladies as soon as the curtain began to fall but still had to wait in line. But let me tell you, I never saw a ladies room line move as quickly as that one did. Those Japanese ladies knew they only had ten minutes to tinkle and get back to their seats so eveyrone hustled.

The scenery for the last act was particularly beautiful, a snow scene with a bridge and a lake. Bits of fake snow fell as the 47 Ronin avenged their master. The costumes were magnificent.

Well, time to go to bed. Tomorrow we go to the Ghibli museum with Michiko and Fumiko.

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