The weather continues to be brutally hot and humid, but we did not let that deter us from heading out to Asakusa yesterday. We like to go there once in a while for the festive atmosphere and the shopping, plus we never tire of wandering around the temple grounds. This time we decided to go in style. We first went to Hama Rikyu park where you can catch a water bus to Asakusa. The water bus travels from Tokyo Bay up the Sumida River. It takes about 40 minutes to get to Asakusa from Hama Rikyu, and along the way you pass under several sights and 13 bridges of different ages and design.

We arrived in Asakusa only to discover that it was the day of the annual Samba Carnival. The good thing was that Brad and I have always wanted to go to the Samba Carnival and, since we had forgotten it was scheduled for Aug. 31, were happy to have stumbled upon it. The Asakusa Samba Carnival features a parade that rivals the Macy's Thanksgiving Day parade for popularity. People show up in droves to watch the parade that strives to create a Brazilian carnival atmosphere. We managed to squeeze into a spot along the parade route about three rows back. The parade started out to be fairly mundane with local civic groups playing typical band music, though we had to chuckle at the baton twirlers who marched to the theme song from "Dallas". Then there were the guys who drove by on about a dozen or so Harleys, each bedecked with a golden eagle and encrusted with jewel-like ornaments. After about a half hour of this nonsense, the Brazilian paraders began to march by. We had to admit, the costumes were rather wild and outlandish. There were men doing acrobatic maneuvers on stilts, and plenty of skimpily clad women with gaudy feathery headresses. There was a woman who wore nothing above the waist except some expertly applied daubs of paint. After about an hour we left -- the heat was just too unbearable.

I saw the buzzard-crow again yesterday. Taffy and I were getting ready to leave the park and there he was about two feet away. We stood and stared at each other awhile, then Taffy tugged me along. I began noticing this crow several weeks ago. He stood out from the others because he was essentially bald! The lack of feathers on his head made his neck look disproportionately long and his shoulders hunched, so that in profile he looked much like a buzzard. I've seen him several times since in the same general area. I've even gotten to where I can identify him by his call -- he sounds like he has a sore throat. It looks like he has begun to grow his feathers back, though he was still quite thin at the top.

Many people in Tokyo really hate the crows; they say they are nasty and threatening and have accused them of wantonly attacking little children and small animals. I'm actually quite fascinated by them. They appear to be quite intelligent and I think they are only aggressive during nesting season when they fiercely protect their young. The official name for them is jungle crow; though one of my neighbors likes to refer to them as "Jurassic crows". Sure they tear in to piles of trash looking for food, but they are only trying to survive in their urban habitat. They have quite a number of calls ranging from growls to barks to the usual caw to what I refer to as the Australian chant -- it sounds like they are saying "walla walla walla walla . . ."

Oh boy! One of my recent print freelance projects has made an appearance on the web. check out this site: United Nations University/Institute of Advanced Studies. I designed the cover for the "Sustainable Future of the Global System" report. Gee, I feel as excited as I did when I was working as a typesetter and first saw one of the ads I worked on in a newspaper. ;-)

The other day, Brad brought home a clipping from the Japan Times about a cat show in Tokyo. Now, this is not your usual cat show, where the cats are judged for their physical qualities. This is a show where cats perform tricks. It's called the Kuklachev Cat Theatre and the show is put on by Yuri Kuklachev, formerly a clown with the Bolshoi Circus. Well, we decided we couldn't pass this up. We showed up at the theatre the second to last day of the show, 45 minutes before the performance and were amazed that we got fourth row seats. The show was phenomenal. I don't know how Kuklachev did it, but his cats were trained to perform some wonderful feats. In one act, a Russian clown (not Kuklachev) performed somersaults, all the while a cat crawled over his body; as the clown tumbled over and over the cat walked down the clown's chest, through his legs, up his back and so forth! There were cats pushing wheelbarrows, cats performing on parallel bars, one cat even did a handstand (or shall I saw pawstand) on Kuklachev's hand. There were also human performances, including an amazing display by a female contortionist. There were a couple of dogs in the show, too, but the dozens and dozens of cats were the real stars.

We went to the Awa Odori in Shimokitazawa last night. Just as I suspected, they put on quite a show. The narrow streets were clogged with festival-goers as a steady stream of dancing groups made their way through the crowd. The music was infectious, the costumes fanciful and the dancing energetic and fun. Even so, I think I preferred the Awa Odori that we had gone to a couple of weeks ago in Naka-Meguro. It certainly was not as crowded in Naka-Meguro . . . it had a more down-home local community feel . . . the dancers were quite talented, and at least you could see them without constantly being jostled about.

The real treat last night was wandering through Shimokitazawa itself. It's known, deservedly, for its bohemian atmosphere. There were lots of funky shops and boutiques, including a store that proclaimed itself to be the "No. 1 Head Shop" (I didn't even know there were any more head shops in existence). There were a number of antique shops that had wonderful items on display with surprisingly affordable prices. We'll definitely go there again for shopping and more exploration.

Taffy is beginning to heal from her surgery. Walking does not seem to present a problem and she can even handle going down steps, but she has been very hesistant to walk up steps. For awhile there, Brad and I had to carry her up the few steps at our building entranceway. The last few times, though, she has begun to take them hesistatingly. We had to change her bandage, so now it is just a plain white bandage and not the sporty bright pink one the vets gave her. She has some stitches which will have to come out soon.

Brad is playing golf this morning and I'm trying to concentrate on coming up with ideas for a freelance job. It's right up my alley . . . a potential client wants a calendar that is different from your usual desktop or wall calendar . . . something with diecuts and unusual folds or pop-ups. I find it difficult enough to come up with visuals that express their theme "Always listening. Always Understanding" much less the striking physical format. I've been futzing away on the computer, avoiding getting straight to the project at hand. Guess I better get to it . . . but first I have some emails to catch up on . . .

Yesterday, Taffy had to go to the vet to have a lump removed from her left rear leg. She came home sporting a bright pink bandage and seems to be able to walk on that leg without too much difficulty. She has been having problems with that leg for some time now; she seems to have difficulty supporting herself on that leg, drags it when she walks and often loses her balance. The vet diagnosed the symptoms as arthritis (our puppy is 14 years old now!) and Taffy's been taking medication for that condition. The vet says the lump is unrelated to the arthritis/weak leg problem. We should get test results back in 4 to 5 days.

Many Obon festivals take place in the Tokyo area during the months of July and August, but this week is officially Obon week. It's one of the most important holidays in Japan. Obon is roughly translated as All Souls Day -- it's a time when the Japanese honor their ancestors. Most take vacation during this week and travel to their home town. All this means that most restaurants and small shops have been closed all week, the streets are clogged with traffic leaving town but empty into town and many areas in the city are eerily quiet. Brad and I went shopping today in Shinjuku, one of the busiest shopping districts in Tokyo (and probably in the world, for that matter). Since it was a Saturday morning we were wondering what kind of crowds we would see on the trains and in the stores. Well, for Tokyo it was light, but I would not say it was deserted by any means. Most of the big stores were open, but we even encountered one large shopping center that was entirely closed. The Yamanote train line is usually sardine city on a normal Saturday morning, but we found breathing room and an empty seat or two.

I recently found out the story behind the festival we went to in Naka Meguro on Aug. 4. It is called Awa Odori which roughly means dance of the fools. I found a very good description of the fesitval on this website. We hear there will be an Awa Odori held in Shimokitazawa soon. Hope we can find out when and check it out. Shimokitazawa is known to be a bohemian section of town, so I imagine they'd put on a pretty good show.

Another hot hazy day. I was out on the terrace watering the plants, listening to the constant drone of the cicadas. When Taffy and I walk in the park the cicadas at times can be deafening. I see little kids every day in the park with their insect nets and plastic cages, trying to catch a few specimens, though I rarely see a cicada actually being caught. At least by the little kids. I have actually spied a sparrow or two chowing down on a hapless cicada. The prey was nearly as big as the hunter! Odd how you can hear the cicadas everywhere, but don't often see them. So, all these thoughts are going through my mind as I'm watering the shrubs when all of a sudden I hear a charactersitic clickety-buzz. I had disturbed a cicada with the spray from the hose. He took off, headed straight for me! I ducked like a ninny and he was gone. And the distant drone went on.

Brad and I finally went to see the new Star Wars movie. We thought we'd beat the crowds by arriving a half hour before the first show on Sunday morning (9:45 a.m.). Guess again. Remember this is Tokyo. It's difficult to avoid crowds at anytime on the weekend. Well, truthfully, the line was not too long but we were a bit worried about the announcement (in Japanese) that the cinema employee kept blaring through a megaphone. The only words we could make out were "Star Wars Episode Two" and "forty". So we stood in line, nervously guessing at the meaning of the announcement:
(a) You must be 40 or younger to buy tickets to Star Wars Episode Two.
(b) No need to rush buying your tickets -- there will be 40 minutes of commercials before the movie begins.
(c) There are only 40 seats left for Star Wars Episode Two and most of them are single seats scattered throughout the theater.

Option B was pretty close to the truth (though it was really about 15 minutes of commercials and 20 minutes of trailers for coming attractions). Option C was dead on and we had to scramble till we finally found two seats in the third row all the way to the left.

As for the movie, we both loved the special effects, but found the dialogue to be rather hokey and the acting wooden. And even though the special effects were quite spectacular, one of them bordered on the rididulous: the image of Yoda engaging Christopher Lee in a light sabre duel. I actually laughed out loud at that one.

And then I began to wonder . . . hmmm that Christopher Lee character sounds so familiar. Bearded guy in possession of extraordinary powers that most mortals can barely dream of . . . the possession of those powers have gone to his head, twisting him to the "dark side" . . . sounds a lot like Sauron in Lord of the Rings doesn't it? Interesting that both characters were played by Christopher Lee. And since he's British, he could even be cast as good-wizard-gone-bad Lord Voldemort in a future Harry Potter movie.

Yesterday, KC and I went to Michiko's house for a cooking lesson. She had offered to show us how to cook gyoza, promising that it would be really easy and that she would let us in on her secret to perfect gyoza. I was really looking forward to our visit, first, because I love gyoza and also love to cook, and second, this would be a chance to be inside a typical Japanese home. The day was a total delight. Michiko, who loves to talk, engaged us in lively conversation from the moment we stepped inside, doffed our shoes and stepped into the slippers she offered us. To accompany the gyoza, she had prepared a veritable Chinese feast: egg drop soup, veggie and chicken stir fry and fried rice. The gyoza were remarkably easy to make -- it reminded me of making empanadas: you place a small amount of filling on a store-bought gyoza wrapper, fold over and seal. The only hard part for us will be in finding the ingredients. Michiko seasons her gyoza with a paste that comes in a tin -- it's actually a soup stock -- but it is something KC and I will have to learn how to find in a Japanese supermarket. Michiko's secret to perfect gyoza is the method in which they are cooked: first steamed and then sauteed in oil. Mmmmm, they were delicious!

Last night we went to another summer festival, this time in Naka-meguro, a part of town we had never been to before. The main shopping street in Naka-meguro was closed to traffic, allowing room for several small groups of people to parade past on-lookers. I'm not sure of the affiliations of these groups of people, probably civic groups of some nature. But whoever they were, they sure knew how to put on a show. All were dressed in bright and cheery traditional summer gear. Many of the women wore matching yukata, odd triangular shaped straw hats with chin straps and geta. Men and some other women wore happi coats and tabi socks. Each group was lead either by a man holding a pole with lanterns on top or a woman bearing a sign -- the lanterns and signs had kanji on them, no doubt identifying the group affiliation. Each group had a troop of dancers and muscians. The musicians played an odd assortment of drums and a variety of other percussion instruments made of bamboo, wood and metal. As far as we could tell, each group played the same tune and everyone in every group chanted the same words over and over again. I'd love to find out some day what they were chanting! Periodically the group would stop parading and a crowd would gather round as the dancers performed wildly energetic steps, all the while twirling paper lanterns in their hands.

We arrived around 7 p.m. and watched as several groups paraded by. We even came across a Japanese rockabilly band set up in front of a store called Rant N Rave. There was usually time between groups of the parading dancers/musicians for the rock group to play a few songs. We heard them play "Stand by Me" and they weren't half bad!

To our disappointment there was not much festival food on offer, so after awhile we ducked into a little restaurant for a bite to eat. It was called Kite Kite Kitchen and the sign outside said something about "handmade gyoza wrapped with love". The words on the sign were the only shred of English in the whole place -- there was no English-language menu and none of the staff spoke English. We made do with what little hiragana and katakana we know and ordered some gyoza and fried rice. All were delicious! All the while we ate, the groups of dancers paraded past the large plate glass window at the front of the restaurant. The parades lasted until 9 p.m. by which time I imagine the dancers were exhausted. I couldn't believe the amount of energy they expended that evening. Luckily, it was not as humid as it's been lately and there was now and then a refreshing breeze.

We are in the dog days of Tokyo summer right now. It's been in the 90s all week and the humidity has been intense. When you step outside the air literally feels heavy. If the sun is shining it is almost unbearable. Consequently I've been trying to stay inside as much as possible. Even so it's been a busy week.

On Wednesday I went to the National Museum of Western Art with KC and Michiko. There was no special exhibit being held . . . it was just a place where we could go to spend some time in air conditioned comfort. Actually, I enjoyed seeing the Museum's collection of modern art. They had a decent selection of impressionist work, including a room full of Monets and a few post-impressionist works as well. They also had quite a few Rodin sculptures.

Thursday I got together with Feren, a DigitalEve friend. She just moved into a new apt. in Ebisu, where we met for lunch. First she showed me where Good Day Books is -- a used book store near Ebisu station. What a nice find -- they have a pretty good selection of used books. You can either pay for them in cash or trade for them with some used books of your own. We had lunch at Good Honest Grub, a cute little cafe serving western-style food. Generous portions, local art work on the walls, menu tends towards health-food offerings.

Today, Friday, we had a goodbye luncheon for Debbie, our neighbor who is moving to the U.S. Most of the ladies of Homat August are away on summer vacation so our lunch party consisted of me, Debbie, Makiko and KC. We went to Gonpachi, a terrific izakaya or Japanese pub, whose latest claim to fame is that George and Laura Bush had lunch there during the last U.S. Presidential visit to Japan. The building it's in was built from the ground up since we moved here. Our meal was fantastic; on Makiko's suggestion we ordered the set menu, allowing us to sample many different kinds of food on the menu. To the best of my recollection, this is what we had:

• Gonpachi salad: watercress-like greens, clams, strips of dried seaweed and an asia dressing
  
• delicious soft tofu, smothered in bonito tuna flakes
  
• tamago yaki (two bite-size pieces of rolled omelet)
  
• potato croquette, smothered in bonito tuna flakes
  
• some sort of weird shrimp ball you just have to see to beleive, it was encased in these thin strips that radiated like tendrils on one side of the ball. it was delicious
  
• chicken yakitori
  
• minced chicken balls
  
• skewered eggplant
  
• cold soba noodles
  
• creme brulee for dessert (an odd western ending to all that japanese fare)