PIER HEAD, LIVERPOOL, FROM ALBERT DOCK
MENDIPS, BOYHOOD HOME OF JOHN LENNON
20 FORTHLIN ROAD, BOYHOOD HOME OF PAUL MCCARTNEYI realized a dream of a lifetime yesterday...well, actually, the dream of my preteen years when I was mad about the Beatles and thought how cool it would be to visit Liverpool, hometown of the fab four. I finally made it. I caught the 7:28 a.m. train out of Harrogate, changed trains at Leeds and pulled into Liverpool Lime Street station around 10 a.m. I had been studying maps of Liverpool I had found on the internet and made my way easily to the tourist info center near the station. It was there that I picked up my tickets for the National Trust tour of the boyhood homes of John Lennon and Paul McCartney. I had about an hour to kill before meeting the minibus for the tour so I headed out in search of a cafe for some tea and a scone. By the time I was seated for my mid-morning treat I had only 20 minutes left before the appointed time to meet the mini bus. I wolfed down my tea and scones and headed off. Leave it to me to get lost finding my way to the minibus. I took a wrong turn somewhere and saw no sign of the tour bus. I began to panic, thinking I'd miss the bus. I ran into the lobby of the Marriott hotel, showed the map to the front desk clerk who was able to set me on the right course. I made it to the bus with about five minutes to spare.
A 20-minute ride from the Liverpool city center brought us to Mendips om Menlove Avenue, the home where John Lennon lived from 1945-63 with his Aunt Mimi and Uncle George. I had been prepared for the experience having watched a special about the National Trust opening Mendips to the public and having recently read excerpts from Cynthia Lennon's recent book about John so I wasn't surprised by the quiet leafy residential area and the cute little semi-detached house. The National Trust conducted research with John's family members to furnish and decorate the house the way it would have looked while John grew up there during the late 40s/early 50s. Only two pieces of furniture from John's time are in the house.
I loved the house. It had such a warm cozy feel to it. TRhe kitchen had black and white floor tiles while the walls were bright turquoise and cream. The leaded glass windows looked out onto a trim garden with trees in their fall foliage. There were some lovely oak furnishings, built-in bookshelves (quite an innovation for those times in that area) and art deco fireplace fixtures. One room had been turned into a photo gallery with photos by Astrid Kirchherr from the early days in Hamburg. There was a photo album full of family photos.
The time flew by so quickly. We weren't allowed to take photos indoors but had a few minutes for some outdoor pics. I managed to take a few snaps before the minibus arrived to take us to our next destination: 20 Forthlin Road, Paul McCartney's boyhood home.
What a difference from Mendips! The house on Forthlin Road is a terraced council house (in American-English that means rowhouse public housing). The house was also furnished and decorated to the late 40s/early 50s time period. None of the furnishings were original but care had obviously been taken to recreate the house to its original appearance. 20 Forthlin Road definitely has a more plain and threadbare look to it but the house was nonetheless cozy.
In each room photos by Mike McCartney, Paul's younger brother, were on display. The photos were taken in the rooms they were displayed in so you could see John standing in the very kitchen you were standing in, making tea. The lounge had been decorated with three different kinds of wallpaper -- on one wall was the more expensive Japanese-motif wallpaper while the other walls were plastered with a cheaper variety. Again, we weren't allowed to take photos indoors and had just a few moments for photos outdoors before being whisked away by the minibus.
Once back in the city center I made my way over to Mathew Street in what is now known as the Cavern District. I took a peek at the Cavern Club -- it is a rebuilt version of the original club on the original site using the original bricks. It is now a pub and live music venue. From there I strolled down to the waterfront and was duly impressed by the "three graces" at Pier Head: The Royal Liver building, the Port of Liverpool building and the Cunard building. I walked over to Albert Dock, an impressive refurbished dockside warehouse that now houses several museums, cafes, restaurants and shops. I really only had time for one museum so I chose Tate Liverpool. I breezed through a manageable collection of 19th- and 20th-century art before wending my way back to Lime Street station.
I wasn't too sad to leave Liverpool...I'll be back in about a month's time when my sister JoAnn comes to visit and the two of us will spend a day there.